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My first mould (using Oomoo 30) - WestGamer
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PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2014 8:24 pm 
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Hi folks,

I thought I'd share my experience of making my first mould, using Oomoo 30 which I bought from Back 2 Base-ix. There is a video on the website which shows how to use it.

The item I wanted to copy as a test was a turret from Dreampod 9 (Heavy Gear Blitz range). It's made of resin and the SmoothOn website says that no release agent is needed.

I stuck the the turret to a piece of transparent plastic with superglue, then built a lego square around the item, using blue-tac around the square perimeter to avoid it leaking. This is effectively following the Mould Making instructions from the Hirst Arts website, but with a different mould-making product.

Oomoo 30 was straightforward enough (it's meant for novice mould-makers) but it was messy as the two different liquids pour quite differently and there is no spout to easily pour from the two containers. So I spilt some when pouring it. It would be easier to make larger quantities rather than small quantities. The pot time for Oomoo 30 is 30 mins and a 6 hour cure time.

I wasn't in any hurry to use the mould, so I left it for a few days and then my daughter helped me to remove the bricks:
Image

And here's a comparison of the original and the mould itself:
Image

The next step is to try a casting, probably using plaster. I'll post the results of that up in a few days. (I'd like to experiment with resin as well but will start with plaster)

In terms of how long this mould will last, it sounds like it depends enormously based upon the number of casts and what material you use to do the casting.

The other caveat with this product is that you have to use it in 6 months. You can't have it sitting on the shelf for years. That's fine for what I have in mind, but it is a consideration.

Hope this was useful for you,

Cheers,

Bruce

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2014 8:49 pm 
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Very Cool! I've been tempted to try this for ages. I can't wait to see the final product.

Joel

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2014 9:08 pm 
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Sweet... I would love to give this a crack

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2014 9:15 pm 
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Good job. How much of the oomoo did you use for that mould?

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PostPosted: Wed Feb 12, 2014 10:53 pm 
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Wow, looks like it turned out pretty good, the detail appears to be intact. I'll be interested to see the cast version once you have a try.

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 9:33 pm 
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A wee progress update. I've made two casts with two different batches of casting plaster but the results are a tad disappointing. The fine detail just breaks off.

Image

I'm going to have another crack over the weekend because you can see at the top of the turret there are gaps in each of the top circle sections - and that isn't right. That's not just fine detail breaking off. It looks like I've made the plaster too thick. But it's also possible that casting plaster just isn't the right material to be using here. It works fine for most of the Hirst Arts stuff but for fine detail, it seems like this is not the right solution.

I seem to remember Onyx mentioning that he used dental plaster. Maybe that would be better for fine detail. Or perhaps I just need to trial some resin. Any suggestions folks?

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PostPosted: Thu Feb 13, 2014 10:15 pm 
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Resin should work fine... Try easy cast. Short remould time but has a short working time as well

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2014 6:56 am 
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I'd second the use of Easy Cast resin. You can get it locally from Kirkside Products in Osborne Park.

I think the biggest issue you have is with air bubbles, hence the loss of detail at the top of the model (which is the bottom of the mould). You might want to try vibrating the mould to try and help dislodge any bubbles, that should helpt cut down the amount and size of them. I've seen some people use DC powered motors to get the necessary vibration.

The next problem you seem to be having is with the detail that sticks out snapping off. Does this happen when you pull the cast out of the mould? Undercuts are a problem for moulding/casting, but can be worked around a little by increasing the complexity of your mould. If you were to make a two piece mould, perhaps split vertically, you might be able to minimise/eliminate the likelihood of details snagging on your mould. In this case, you would remove the cast by pulling the mould away on the same plane as these details as opposed to bending and pulling it out against them.


Hope that makes sense and is helpfull!


EDIT - Looking at the pics again, I think air bubbles are your main problem. Unless you're finding plenty of little broken pieces after you de-mould, most of the damage I can see in the photo looks like trapped bubbles of air in the mould (the nice, smoothly rounded inwards shapes suggest this - if bits were just breaking off, I wouldn't expect them to look so rounded where they've come away from the main cast).


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PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2014 7:36 am 
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Try a little dishwasher "rinse aid" in water and wash your molds in that and shake dry before use. Bruce at Hirst Arts has an article on his site. I think he calls it the wet water method.

As Vargr says, a vibration board might help. I have a cheap electric toothbrush I press against the mold to help release those bubbles. I just haven't got around to bolting it to a board/tray

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2014 8:43 pm 
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Thanks for the tips, folks.

Regarding Easy Cast resin, I understand that it can be bought from Kirkside but they're only open during normal business hours Monday to Friday. Is there anywhere in Perth that is open on a Saturday? Otherwise I'll end up making an internet purchase (and having to pay for freight).

Thanks,

Bruce

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PostPosted: Fri Feb 14, 2014 9:04 pm 
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I haven't used resin but from what I've read air bubbles will still be a problem. I've read a few articles that talk about vacuum chambers to get bubbles out! Does Easy Cast deal manage this?

Sorry Bruce, no idea on weekend suppliers :(

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PostPosted: Sat Feb 15, 2014 1:04 pm 
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Ok, another batch of plaster, carefully mixed and the mould 'vibrated' and it's a much better result....

Image

The result is good enough for me to patch with green stuff and go from there....

Definitely a step in the right direction. :wink:

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 04, 2014 8:02 pm 
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I paid a visit to Kirkside and they were very helpful.

I've tried some Ezycast resin but that didn't work very well due to the Royal Jell-E that I used. I need to try again.

I've also been casting with Hydrostone (10,000 PSI) and that rocks. I'm currently building a new tower for Fluttershy as per this post.... but I still have some casting to do before this can be assembled.

In the meantime, here are some examples of casts that Ive made using Hydrostone, using the Oomoo 30 moulds. The ones in grey are the originals. The ones in white are the casts. (apologies on the first picture, I've taken a photo of the back - so they aren't completely identical - but you get the idea). This is quite fun.

Badlands Tower - I need to file down the 'lid' on top.
Image

Turrets - you can see more casts in the background and also one of the misshapen resin Badlands Towers in the back of the picture
Image

One of the larger Badlands buildings - without the 'lid'
Image

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PostPosted: Fri Apr 04, 2014 11:15 pm 
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Looks good Bruce, once they're painted no one will know the difference

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PostPosted: Sat Apr 05, 2014 7:13 am 
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They have come out really well. Nice work

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