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Project Log - 28/6 - Playing with Liquid Mask. - Page 11 - WestGamer
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PostPosted: Tue Dec 20, 2011 9:09 am 
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I like the mycetic spore Dave, looks quite organic and very Niddy!

If you're looking for other kits for easy mycetic spores check these out:
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa22 ... atcher.jpg
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa22 ... se_640.jpg

I swear by the Dragons Universe pod. You can find them at Target for 20bucks a pop. The size for both is perfect too:
http://i200.photobucket.com/albums/aa22 ... e/pod1.jpg

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PostPosted: Wed Jan 04, 2012 10:08 pm 
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Good evening Dave.

I see your taking Nids to the Quickmarch, do you have an army shot of all of your nids?

Would be great to see them all assembled and ready to eat something :mrgreen


Last edited by Mordhel on Thu Jan 05, 2012 4:11 pm, edited 1 time in total.

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PostPosted: Thu Jan 05, 2012 5:26 am 
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I will organise some photos when I get home.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 11:57 am 
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Sorry for the ridiculous delay there, Mordhel. I got busy. But here are the army shots to make up for it. Also, Dystopian Wars!

By request from one of the PAGS guys, here is our freshly glasscoated water world. I used Viv's method with a few minor alterations that had the whole board done and dusted in 20 minutes.

First, rather than using brushes/sponges/hard work for anything, I used a paint roller.

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I didn't wash out the tray between colours and I worked quickly so they all blended together. Started with dark blue, then turqouise with dark blue, then a very light brush of light blue before another coat of turqouise/dark blue. I then mixed up the whole batch of glass-coat (this turned out to be stupid and unnecessary) and poured it on to the board (also stupid). The glasscoat is really sticky and will not redistribute across the board easily, so if you do decide to pour it, pour it in long thin lines across the whole board, not in a huge puddle in the middle like I did.

I then started using balled up paper and gloves (like Viv does in the video) but after going through two rolls trying to mop up the excess glasscoat I poured on (for an 8x6, use half of each bottle, then mix more if you need), I got frustrated and had a go with the paint roller. Surprisingly, I saved myself a LOT of time this way and the effect turned out the same, so win!

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And finally, for Mordhel, the horde. I had them out like this for an Apoc game yesterday and to take stock of what was actually there. Turns out what I thought was about 3.5k was closer to 4.7k worth of models... Now they just have to get painted.

Image
Image

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 12:37 pm 
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Quote:
And finally, for Mordhel, the horde. I had them out like this for an Apoc game yesterday and to take stock of what was actually there. Turns out what I thought was about 3.5k was closer to 4.7k worth of models... Now they just have to get painted.
Thanks for taking the time to take a pic of the swarm =)

Very nice army :mrgreen: and it looks like 85% of the army is painted so that's a pretty good percentage of completed models.

Did you take any more close up images during the apoc game ?

And what do you think about the new models for the Tyrannofex / Tervigon.

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I spent most of Sunday re-modeling my existing tervigons to try and match them in with the new look models. I have invested to much time in the models to just shelf them and buy the new ones.


Last edited by Mordhel on Mon Feb 27, 2012 4:53 pm, edited 2 times in total.

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 12:41 pm 
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I'm probably going to cave and buy four of the kits for two of each. One of the Tyrant kits too. Because I'm weak and prefer plastic. When that happens, I'll refit my conversions back to Carnifexes and use them as Screamer Killers. I just won't be buying it locally.

And no pics from the Apoc game but I'm trying to organise a 5k grudge match between a mate's Ultramarines and my Nids. If that eventuates, there will be many photos. :D

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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 4:56 pm 
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Quote:
I'm probably going to cave and buy four of the kits for two of each. One of the Tyrant kits too. Because I'm weak and prefer plastic. When that happens, I'll refit my conversions back to Carnifexes and use them as Screamer Killers. I just won't be buying it locally.

And no pics from the Apoc game but I'm trying to organise a 5k grudge match between a mate's Ultramarines and my Nids. If that eventuates, there will be many photos. :D
I have to say i am almost tempted to buy 2 kits myself and like yourself its mainly because of the fact that they are plastic, i do like the GW plastic models.

I look forward to the seeing images from the 5k grudge match :mrgreen:


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PostPosted: Mon Feb 27, 2012 6:46 pm 
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With a few hills for islands, we have a very shiny board.

Image

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2012 4:44 pm 
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With Wetworks & Rapid Fire 3 creeping up on me, it's that time of year again where I stop painting miniatures and start painting terrain. First two items on the list, the long delayed ice board and a few fun pieces I picked up from Sarissa Precision.

I painted these as quick and dirty as I could just to see if the method would work ok and I'm kinda happy with the result. Looking back (to... this morning), I'm wishing I had put a coat of colour on first but they look like they've been through the wars, so I can live with it. It started as a white basecoat, then a light overspray with a yellow (they are supposed to match the desert board), stippled with pluck foam using Calthan Brown, then Boltgun metal, then Mithril Silver on the doors/hatches before putting a little black paint in my water pot and washing the whole thing as roughly as I could in black water.

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The ice board was pretty straight forward. I used a little bit of plaster to raise up a few sections, waited for it to dry, then carved cracks in it. I had initially thought that if I kept it wet in the sun, it would crack on it's own but this didn't happen, so I wound up using a knife. Then painted dark blue, drybrushed turqoise, then brushed around the cracks in ice blue, then light grey/white. Then paint PVA over it for gloss. The whole board was flocked with sand, painted white and then flocked again with B2B Snow Flock.

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The boxes are papercraft. For the life of me, I have no idea where I found them but I still have the PDFs if anyone would like them. They were released freely. I made up about eighteen of them in half an hour one morning for a quick Infinity game and then found out that they were pretty damn awesome, so I kept them.

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PostPosted: Sun Apr 15, 2012 5:51 pm 
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Cool work Dave... You have been busy

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 8:02 am 
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I would love a copy of those building PDFs.
PM perhaps ?

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PostPosted: Mon Apr 16, 2012 10:32 am 
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Interested in the PDF as well :)


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PostPosted: Fri Dec 21, 2012 9:51 pm 
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Oh wow. 8 months without an update. Feel real bad but I will make up for it :D. I've been working away or working stupidly long weeks but thankfully, that got me a bit of spending money and with it, some shiny toys.

First up though, response!
Quote:
I would love a copy of those building PDFs. PM perhaps ?
Quote:
Interested in the PDF as well :)
I've since lost the original PDF but I managed to find the site I got them from, so enjoy. The ones I used were called IKUBEs but he has tutorials for a whole bunch of stuff.

http://www.toposolitario.es/workshop/index.html

Now on to the fun stuff. I pretty much fell in love with Warmachine and over the course of the last year or so, somehow wound up with a 75 point force. Two new additions were one each of the plastic Khador kits, one standard chassis and the one that makes up the Spriggan and Devestator. I didn't want to lock in to one build, so I sat down and magnetised them, taking photos of the whole process.

First, we wash them. Warm, soapy water, a toothbrush and a sieve so I don't accidentally poor anything down the sink while I rinse the soap off. Then out on to a tea-towel to dry. I did both kits and a box of Man-O-Wars at the same time, so after each kit was washed, they were put back in their original box with a paper towel to soak up anything left and keep the kits seperate so I didn't mix up parts. If I was more familiar with the kits, I wouldn't have bothered but this is my first time assembling either.

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Next step is to figure out where to glue and where to magnetise. I don't know how much this varies from faction to faction but mine were decided by arm joins at the elbow and the faces. The instructions on the back were a big help with the Spriggan kit.

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The shoulders are sitting seperately on the table but they were glued on to the model. I just wanted to drill them first. Important point is making sure the drill bit is the same diameter as the magnet as this gives you a flush fit and will strengthen the bond with the magnet. However, be very careful to only drill as deep as you need to. Otherwise, it's a green stuff repair job. I did have to cut out the top of the groove that lines the arm up but I then used that groove line as a center point to drill in to.

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When it came to drilling the arms, I used the top of the groove as my center point. This kept the arms relatively consistent.

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The most important thing you can do with magnets is maintain the correct polarity. I usually fix one magnet, wait for it to be completly dry, then use it as an indicator for polarity when glueing everything else.

And voila!

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I've done a whole bunch of hobby stuff in the last couple of months, so I just need to take photos and throw them up. So, votes! Who wants to see what first? Your choices are...

... More Tyranids, specifically two Tervigons!
... The (re)start of my Infinity PanOceania!
... The modular 6x4 I built in a week!
... A tutorial for speed painting an Orc Blood Bowl team!

Cast your votes now. Or don't! I've got work to do......

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2012 6:59 pm 
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The 1 week modular 6x4! :mrgreen:

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PostPosted: Sun Dec 23, 2012 7:42 pm 
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The 1 week modular 6x4! :mrgreen:
+1 :)


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