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Project Log - 28/6 - Playing with Liquid Mask. - Page 12 - WestGamer
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PostPosted: Mon Dec 24, 2012 10:41 am 
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2X Tervigon please +1


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PostPosted: Mon Jan 21, 2013 10:47 pm 
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So we going to see either of the two Tervigons or the modular 6x4 in 2013 ?

Would love to get an update if you have the time.


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PostPosted: Tue Jan 22, 2013 4:32 am 
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Sorry guys. Work started asking for 12 hour days and wanting aircon for next year, I oblidged. But it looks like I'm getting a four day weekend, so check back Sunday. :D

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 08, 2014 8:14 pm 
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I'm a terrible person. Last time stamp was me, over a year ago, saying I'd post again in a week. Whoops.

In all fairness, things got pretty hectic and it's been an interesting year. Hobby never stopped, I just stopped posting. I spent about three months working away, then ruptured a disc in my back which made sitting for long periods of time pretty rough. But, over the last two months, things have picked up, so I've got some pics of a few things I've done recently and where the hobby is heading for me. It's nice to be back on the painting bandwagon. First up, Infinity.

I'm on my fourth paint scheme now for my PanO. This is the closest I could get to the studio scheme, as these guys are straight out of the Operation Icestorm box and will probably be used for introductory games. I tried to use Angel's guide (search Facebook for Studio Giraldez, his Photo Albums are fantastic references) to paint them but I still need a bit more practice with the airbrush. Can't quite get the mix right. Up close, the detailing on the ORC is still pretty harsh, so I might go back and tone it back a bit. Or leave it, since it looks fine when it's not 10cm from the camera. Rest of the unit won't be far behind, then same process for the Nomads.

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Next up is Dystopian Wars. I actually bought these on a whim. Noddy bought the Shadow Hunter box but didn't want the FSA stuff, so I bought in, then started playing and realized I was actually enjoying it. Or was until I got steamrolled by Jiefu's Ottoman Dreadnought. That started the arms race that ended with the force below. I've got the rest of the two boxes of stuff painted but I changed schemes half way again and these are the finished ones under the new scheme. It's a recurring problem with any project. I'll settle on colours early, get frustrated, then experiment til I find something I like, necessitating starting the whole lot from scratch.

These ones were easy enough. As with everything Dystopes, it starts with black undercoat and metallic drybrush. I went with Boltgun Metal, then bronze, then pick out grey hull sections with Adeptus Battlegrey, drybrush with light grey, paint in deck with Bestial Brown, pick out spot sections of ship with pure Boltgun or Mithril, then wash the whole ship (minus grey hull sections) with Devlan/Agrax.

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Finally, X-Wing. EskimoDan roped me in to it and between the two of us and Stu, we're slowly converting the rest of the PAGS regulars. I've bought in primarily just Rebels but started picking up the odd Imperial ship to round out the cards available to me. It's a point of insanity that the biggest selling point for the regulars has been that it's a pre-painted game and I still went out and re-painted everything. Scheme design was easy here and I'm not likely to go back on it. Big bold colours and dirty ships. Second lot is the WIP.

These models are super easy to paint. White undercoat (didn't bother stripping original colours), masked off sections not being "striped" with painters tape, spray with Red Gore using airbrush, then pick out metallics and grey sections. Finally, wash with Devlan/Agrax until ship is dirty enough, then paint in canopy black and coat canopy with gloss varnish for sheen. If (when) I start repainting Imperials, it will probably be a similar process, just with a black base and red or blue striping instead of white.

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The asteroids were just to make the game prettier. For gameplay reasons, the base of the stalk is magnetised so that the base area can be pinned in play and the asteroid removed. Im going to make up a few more when PAGS decides to run an X-Wing tourno. It's super easy. Pine bark chips, sprayed black, drybrushed dark grey, then light grey. Drill hole for flight stand from 40k, glue magnet to flight stand, glue magnet to asteroid template.

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Next up, Blood Bowl Skaven & Humans, more of the above and maybe some Warmachine. Stay tuned.

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 08, 2014 9:29 pm 
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Awesome work on the FSA. :)

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PostPosted: Sat Nov 08, 2014 11:12 pm 
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And definitely some Warmachine. Stay tuned.
Very keen to see this Dave. :)


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 09, 2014 12:18 am 
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I see what you did there, Matt.

So, just for you, even though it's midnight on a Saturday, I'll drag out what I've done on the Warmachine stuff and get you pretty pictures. :D

I'm finding airbrushing to be tricky with some tasks but an absolute godsend on others. Case in point, these jacks. For reference, the original method I had for painting them can be found here with the final result two posts down. That first Jack was slaved over for about a day with a sponge, building up the colours and while it looks absolutely filthy, it was super time consuming to do.

These bad boys, on the other hand, were done in about.... twenty minutes (?) or so. There is still brush work to be done on them after that but production lining the primary colours is a huge time save and if I wanted to do it even faster, I could have undercoated them metal, masked the metal sections, then airbrushed the red on.

Process is straight forward. Start with black. Spray with Red Gore or equivalent. Spray with Blood Red, focusing on feathering the edges and spraying from angles that create sharp edges. Then add some orange to the red, do a light brush on the edges to get that real sharp contrast where it drops from one shade to another.

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Next up is brushwork. Hard edge highlight with orange, then wash any rivets and recessed sections.

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Then metal. I decided to brush on a fairly wet mix as this was faster and less messy than drybrushing, then pick out some detail later in bronze and wash back down to shade. Pretty sure the equivalent colours were Boltgun and either Agrax/Devlan or Badab. Given the tint on the last guy, I'm gonna say Devlan.

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I started the same method on the Man-O-Wars but didn't get real far before the airbrush had a fit and I gave up for the day and cleaned it. Warmachine is fairly low on my priority list because only one other person at PAGS is interested in playing it but it's something I want to get done eventually just for the sake of having a fully painted list.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 09, 2014 9:20 am 
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Haha The man delivers. They look incredible, its a shame no one down your way plays warmachine.


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PostPosted: Sun Nov 09, 2014 1:24 pm 
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The 1 week modular 6x4! :mrgreen:
+1 :)
I don't care if it's almost year old ;)

+1

Also keen to see the Skaven :D

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 09, 2014 1:48 pm 
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Quote:
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The 1 week modular 6x4! :mrgreen:
+1 :)
I don't care if it's almost year old ;)

+1

Also keen to see the Skaven :D
Lol. I'll drag it out, get some snapshots and do a write up. The Skaven are being kitbashed at the moment. More progress will be made as the next league draws closer.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 09, 2014 3:08 pm 
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Ok. I apologise for the lack of work in progress shots. I did this a while ago and have no idea where the pics would be or if I even took any.

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I bashed this out well over a year ago now and it's done a few road trips to Infinity tournos, so it's a bit worse for wear but this is the "one week" modular 6x4. Construction went like this. I'll talk about everything that went wrong and what I would do differently at the end.

1) Start with 6x 2'x2' blocks of chipboard. I used 10mm or 12mm. I forget which. Doesn't matter. Wouldn't use it again. See post mortem for why.

2) Rough out a design for the board on some paper. In my case, I went with four boards having one corner each as elevated and two boards have two sides with dips in them. Its pretty standard modular design. Allows for one large elevation, two smaller ones or four corner pieces on a 4'x4' and a 'river/gully' section on a 6'x4'.

3) Using your design as a guideline, figure out how high you want your hill to be. Then start cutting out strips of 6mm mdf 2 feet long. In my case, I needed eight pieces that were 4" high and 20 that were 2" high. The 2" height ones are the "standard" edges, save four that had a matching recess cut in them for the "river/gully".

4) Take one of the high pieces and make your template for your hill. Cut out the shape, then use it to mark and cut the remaining seven 'hill' pieces the same way. As long as at least one corner comes down to the 2" height of the standard edges and all the hills have the same shape, you're fine. This won't result in a perfectly circular hill though as we can stretch and warp the hill out in to the board.

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5) Fix the edges to the bases. Glue and wood screws will do fine. After the thing is filled with polystyrene and glue, nothing will move it. Make sure to pilot drill the chipboard before putting screws in it or you will blow it out.

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Thus ends Day 1. At this point, leave it for the glue to dry.

6) Using whatever polystyrene pieces you have lying around, fill in the board. When you get to the edges, deliberately bring the polystyrene up past the wood and just use a knife or plasterboard saw to cut it back down to shape. It doesn't matter how rough the polystyrene edge is. In my case, I wanted a rolling field, so I used a lot of flat sheets cut to shape, which gave me a nice flat result. Then I just stacked them up for the hills. Use a fair bit of glue to hold everything in place but don't worry about filling in the little gaps too much. That comes next.

Stop Day 2 here and wait for the glue to dry.

7) Now that everything is in place, grab a wallboard/plasterboard saw and some sandpaper and start sculpting. As long as your foam meets your wooden edge, it will look fine, so go nuts making wierd shapes or smoothing down your hills. I staggered everything to stop models getting broken but you can go nuts. It was at this point, before filling, that I grabbed the pine bark chips that make up the rock face and glued them in.

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8) At this stage, go to Bunnings and grab a bucket of PolyFilla. You'll want a large bucket. This is how you're going to smooth everything out and get a nice level coat. Smear it all over the joint. Fill gaps around the edges and up and down the hill sections. Don't stress about texture. That comes next.

Stop Day 3 here. Give the Filla overnight to skin and set. Sand it down before you start the next step.

9a) At this point, you have two choices. If you're flocking with grass, I recommend doing a first pass of texture, then painting. Use a bit of PVA and pick out any sections you want to look different to the bulk. In my case, it was sections of exposed dirt/sand. If you didn't care about this, you can skip it and go straight to paint. This colour will depend on what you want your final result to be. I went with a dark, loamy colour. Or you can go crazy, flock the whole thing with dirt, then flock it with grass later. But that's just double handling.

9b) If you're just flocking with dirt for a desert/ice board, then you can coat the whole board in sand/texture.

Stop Day 4 here. Wait for either the paint or glue to dry.

10a) At this stage, if you haven't flocked, then flock the whole thing. I used Woodland Scenics tubs. Don't worry about how boring the grass looks. We fix that. If you're the sort of lunatic that likes to break things up, then you super glue tufts on in random places at this stage as well.

10b) If you already flocked, then paint.

Stop Day 5 here. Wait some more. If you're super impatient and an early riser and insomniac (and the days are hot enough), you can probably mash a few days together here. I had a week off and nothing better to do when I did this, so I don't think it actually took me this long.

11) At this point, we're detailing. Any rock sections, hit with black paint. Grass sections get drybrushed. Start with Goblin Green or equivalent, then work up to Yellow. Hot tip, don't use GW paints. Go to Bunnings. Buy small testor pots of house paint. And use a gigantic brush. Make sure you're pretty light on the paint before you start so you don't smear the grass too much but otherwise, go bonkers. Light strokes. At this point, your grass will start to improve dramatically. If you just textured your board with dirt, you can start drybrushing up to whatever you want. When the rocks dry, same thing. Drybrush up in grey. Pine bark is incredibly textured and looks amazing like that, so don't be shy.

Congratulations! At this point, you've got a playable board. Well, you don't have any terrain. But the board looks pretty. I did start some terrain at the same time but didn't finish the bulk of it.

Post Mortem

What would I have done differently?

Weight: The chipboard base makes it surprisingly heavy. Still able to be carried one handed for it's size but unwieldy. If I did this again, I would start with a thinner base and build a lighter frame. 6mm mdf for base and sides and 20-30mm thick square beams to fasten to.

Shape: This was more because of how I approached it but I would use expanding foam over polystyrene sheets. The outer shape is already there and this would give me an easier way to cut in rivers, craters etc. Expanding foam cuts beautifully with a retracting knife. Polystyrene less so. This would also have cut down on the amount of glue but curing time would be similar and carving time would add on more, so it would probably just be a wash.

Dimensions: Those of you with eagle eyes would notice that I started with 2'x2' boards, then screwed 6mm on to the edge of them. It's not a huge difference but does increase the size of the board. It also made some of the boards a slightly odd shape. Corners don't line up perfectly. So start with the base, then find a way to butt them up on top, not to the side.

Aesthetic: Grass fields are boring. This method would have worked fine for pretty much anything but an urban board and given a second pass, I'd probably do something a bit more exotic.

What went right?

Function: The board was designed for Warmachine and Infinity, so it had a few things to take in to consideration. I needed large flat areas to pile scatter terrain on but in the event that I was light on terrain, I wanted elevation changes across the board to help block LOS. That's why the hill sections drop down to a valley before coming back to normal height and in practice, it works perfectly. Same for the design. I actively avoided chopping huge holes or craters in because I was planning on making any features like that scatter terrain rather than fixing them in place. This allows the board a huge freedom in the way it's arranged. This is the set up for a standard Infinity game.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2014 8:29 pm 
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Had a few hours free, so I broke out the airbrush again to get some work done on my Man-O-Wars. Process is easy enough. Black undercoat. Red Gore basecoat. Blood Red highlighting. 50/50 Blood Red/Troll Slayer Orange highlight. Fire Dragon Bright as a fine edge highlight. Boltgun Metal for metallic sections. Ogryn Flesh wash for shading. And pick out the occasional bit of metal in bronze for flavour. Quick and dirty.

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PostPosted: Sun Nov 16, 2014 8:58 pm 
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Impressive!!

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 10:48 am 
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Amazing what you can do with airbrushes, they look beautiful.

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PostPosted: Mon Nov 17, 2014 4:39 pm 
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Wow! I really like how the airbrushing red turned out.

Red is a very hard colour to paint well and airbrushing just makes it look amazing they way the colours are blended.


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